Furniture

Sitting Comfortably

by Anna on January 6, 2013

single chair option 2I think it would be fair to say that I have fallen in love with re-furbishing vintage and antique chairs and whilst it has been a complete learning curve for me, I have to admit that I have enjoyed all of the challenges that each of our Chair Projects have thrown at us. Believe me, these two were no exception.

We discovered these two ornate chairs in a gorgeous Flea Market in Hove called Department. Once we started to strip them back, we could see that they had already been re-upholstered once before. Lets just say that I think whoever did them before had got a little staple happy from looking at the Mount Everest size mountain of staples we had to remove from the two chairs.

Chairs Before

Close Up Stripping Of ChairWe wanted to try something a bit different on these chairs, something a bit more rustic and so after some hardy negotiating at our favourite Brighton Street Market, we came away with some Hemp upholstery fabric and decorative nail strips (which we had previously used, and loved, in one our New Throne post). I had a visual in mind of what I wanted the chairs to look like, so I turned to my trusty friend Annie Sloane to provide the paint finish that would complete our Rustic look.

Now, I know that you may have probably read through our chair blogs before and whilst obviously riveted by our tales of upholstery trials and tribulations, I wanted to focus more on the paint effect achieved on this particular project. I read recently that Annie Sloane’s paints are a bit like a bug, “once bitten, your home won’t ever look the same again” and I realised how true that was. I counted back over our many projects and realised that we had equally fallen in love with this fantastic paint, along with the rest of the furniture restoration fanatics out there. So I thought I would share with you, how we achieved the look we wanted on these chairs.

Chalk Paint Close Up

The beauty with using Chalk Paint is that most wood surfaces do not need any preparation prior to applying the paint itself. However a good friend of ours said it was always best to give any varnished surface a good sanding to help the paint hold even better. We found this to be true.

Sanded ChairEnsure that you use a good quality paintbrush and apply the paint quite thickly. Don’t be afraid to move the brush in different directions, garaunteeing that the paint gets worked into every nook and cranny. Depending on the finish you want to acheive, you may want to add another coat, however one coat is sometimes enough, as it’s very thick paint.

Close Up of painted chair

Once the paint (whether one coats or two) is dry then pick your sandpaper of choice. Again, depending on the look you want to achieve you may want to go for either a fine grain sandpaper or more of a coarser grain. For our chair we used a coarse grain sandpaper as we wanted the wood underneath to be quite noticeable. Be sure to think about where you are rubbing the paint away. Think about where the paint could naturally be worn away over time and concentrate your efforts on those areas more.

sanding chairOne alternative to sand paper is wire wool. This can sometimes be a bit more aggressive, but is easier to control around more rounded surfaces.

Wire wool chairTo seal the the painted surface, use a soft cloth to rub in a coat of clear wax. As we were using white chalk paint we only used the clear wax, but there is a darker wax you can buy that gives a more distressed and worn look. We had used this on our TV stand project earlier in the summer.

Annie Sloane Wax

Waxing the chairAfter the paint was applied and finished with the wax, we set about stapling the fabric to the main body of the chairs. Again we had used the previous fabric as a template to cut out the hemp upholstery fabric.

Fabric templates

Close up of fabric

We decided to add back in the upholstery buttons which had previously been blocked up and covered when the chairs were re-upholstered before. Knowing that finish would look the better for it, we covered the twenty buttons needed. To see how to do this in more detail, you can read our blog entry ‘Push The Button‘.

Buttons front

buttons back

After stapling like crazy and applying the finishing touches of the decorative nail strip’s, the twin chairs were finished and ready. Actually I’m sitting in one as I type this now.

two chairs option 3

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Making a New TV Stand

by Chris on October 7, 2012

Now, I’m not going to start criticising the trusty Stair Banister TV Stand we did a while back. God knows, it’s seen us through some epic live TV events this summer. But, for all it’s simplicity in design, we’re not totally ready to accept it as a permanent feature in our living room. It’s better purposed to being used as a coffee table and unfortunately we’ve already got one of those.

What we needed was something new all together. Something to hide the mountain of cables gushing out the back of our various entertainment gadgets. So with a sad goodbye, we replaced the old TV Stand with a swish new cable hiding version. Here’s how you can make one of your own.

Tools you’ll need
Kreg Jig, circular saw, tape measure, pencil, drill, wood screws (3.0 25mm), wood glue, sandpaper and a spirit level.

Cutting List
Table Top – 89mm x 910mm. See the making a table top post to to replicate this one.
Legs – 4 x 350mm (35mm x 35mm)
Long sides – 4 x 820mm (35mm x 20mm)
Long side cladding – 3 x 820mm (7.5mm)
Short sides – 4 x 400mm (35mm x 20mm)
Short side cladding – 3 x 400mm (7.5mm)
Front divider – 1 x 200mm (35mm x 20mm)
MDF Shelf – 410mm x 820mm (9mm)
Shelf guides – 4 x 250mm (20mm x 20mm)

Glue the three sections of cladding together for the sides and back of the cabinet. Then screw the 35mm x 25mm side panels to the top and bottom, so it looks like the image below. These will need to be flush with each other, any overlap or you’ll be paying for it later. Set up your Kreg Jig to the 1″ point and drill the guide holes into the top of side panels.

Starting with the shorter sides, screw the side panels to the legs. Use a small amount of wood glue before you screw any pieces together, just to ensure it’s a good finish. You should now have two fully joined short side panels. Next you’ll need to follow the same process to join the larger back panel to the legs. You’ll now have three pieces joined together; the two sides and back of the cabinet. Finally, use the remaining two 35mm x 20mm long side panels and screw those into place. At every step, use your spirit level to make sure you’re screwing it together at a straight angle.

To give the shelf something to sit on, screw in the shelf guides along the bottom side panels. These will all need to be 9mm lower than the top of the top of all the side panels, so shelf sits flush. For the shelf to fit perfectly you’ll need to cut into the edges a bit. Draw a line down both sides that’s 10mm in from the edge. Then measure 15mm from the bottom of each side, so you have a half square on each corner. Cut this square out and it should just slide down into place. You might find it a little tight, just sand it a bit more until it fits.

Before you screw the top on you’ll need to set up a divider in the front. It’s up to you if you want this, but I needed a section between the PS3 and TiVo box. With the Kreg Jig, drill a 1″ hole at each end. Find the middle of the top and bottom panel, then use this point to screw it into place. Gently place the table top and screw it into place. Job done!

 

You’re done! Set up the TV, put your feet up and give yourself a pat on the back. Don’t worry we’re not totally turning out backs on the old TV stand, we’ll whip into something new one day soon. Just keep checking the site.

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